Berlin coffee experiences 2011

Having heard of our forthcoming visit to Berlin earlier in the year, I got an email from a kind Berliner called Karlheinz, offering to help us out. A phone call later and a day was planned to find out what Berlin and our new friend, Karlheinz Rieser had to offer a couple of Aussie coffee enthusiasts.

Berlin Kaffeemuseum

First stop was the Kaffeemuseum where we met Stefan Bracht and his amazing collection of coffee machines and memorabilia – the most precious being a coffee pot that’s been in his family since 1785. That’s 3 years before Australia was settled! We talked briefly about German coffee history over some fine filter coffees, including a Carmen Estate from Panama. I could have spent the whole day there fossicking through everything and listening to more stories. But we had to move on and keep to the plan Karlheinz had for us. We then went on a mission to find the best coffee in Berlin.

Karlheinz’ cafe tour of Berlin

Karlheinz explained that in German, the colloquial meaning of the term Double Eye is ‘worth a second look’. The café/roastery named Double Eye (Akazienstr. 22, 10823) certainly is. The owner, Arno Schmeil is a German barista champion and his espressos were exceptional. The locals obviously thought so too, as there was a long queue. Add to that there’s no place inside to sit; you drink your coffee standing in the street. Balancing your cup in one hand, grab a Portuguese custard tart with the other, then find a group of locals to practice your German with – and have a great time. If this is too daunting, you can always communicate in English, as most Berliners speak it fluently.

At Double Eye with Arno Schmei, German barista champion and owner of Double Eye

At Barcomi’s we sampled some lovingly baked creations along with our coffee. Cynthia Barcomi, a Jewish American has turned a childhood dream into reality and created two well-known coffee institutions in Berlin – a coffee roastery with a café and a deli with a café (Sophienstraße 21 10178 and Bergmannstraße 21 10961). There I was introduced to espresso with cream. This is a treat I enjoy only very occasionally at home. When cooking with cream, I always reserve a little for an espresso.

We were treated to more hospitality at Karlheinz’s roastery, Coffee Star (Müllerstraße 146 13353) and some coffees from Reunion. Valerie, the daughter of a farmer in Reunion had brought samples to Karlheinz for advice. So out came the cafetiere and we were in for a fun afternoon of more tasting and chatting about coffee

Berlin School of Coffee

Our second contact who we’d met at Caffe Culture in London the year before was Irena Markovic from the Berlin School of Coffee who showed us around the school upstairs and the roastery, Berliner Kaffeerosterei (Uhlandstraße 173/174, 10719) which is on the lower level.

On the recommendation of Irena, I experienced espresso extracted over nougat at the roastery’s cafe. Simply divine – everyone should try it at least once. I also love the way you get little blocks of different coloured sugar served with your coffee in Germany – even if you don’t have sugar in your coffee. And a glass of water – with everything presented on a convenient little tray.

More cafes in Berlin

There’s no shortage of cafes in Berlin. Clutching maps marked with recommendations, we next made our way to an awesome espresso and long black at Cafe Mohring in Potsdamer Platz (Alte Potsdamer Str. 5 10785).

Irena explained that a Café Einstein is where many Berliners like to go for coffee. They’re modelled on the Viennese coffeehouse style with waiters in long aprons and waistcoats and lots of timber surfaces, with a few locations. We visited the one near the Brandenberg gate at UnterdenLinden 42, 10117 where my espresso with cream was very smooth and flavoursome. I’m told the other at Kurfürstenstraße 58, 10785 is more impressive as it’s more ornate. As in other such Viennese style cafes, you can choose from good traditional fare such as schnitzel and a large range of cakes.

At God Shot (Immanuelkirchstraße 32 10405), as well as a café and coffee school combination, we found quiet spaces to catch up on some computer work. We enjoyed our coffees and loved the little biscuits, served with every coffee, that oozed chocolate when you bit into them.

Modern decor coupled with welcoming customer service set the tone for our arrival at SETs (Schlüterstr. 36, 10629). Apparently you can also stay upstairs in one of their small rooms for a very reasonable rate. With a cosy cafe and friendly staff right at the bottom of the staircase, I would certainly consider staying there next time we visit Berlin.

We then headed off to The Barn (Auguststraße 58, 10119), a cosy minimalist place that served great piccolos and Bonanza Coffee Heroes (Oderberger Str. 35, 10435), for more piccolos and its sunny spot out the front to read our guidebooks.

Roststatte (Ackerstraße 173, 10115) was our next destination. There you’ll find not only a cafe serving exceptional coffee and meals. It’s also a Coffee Academy and a place to buy the latest coffee machines and accessories.

Wandering around we stumbled upon espresso-ambulanz. Hard to miss the popup style café in striking red and with it’s location on the street, we enjoyed some of the best coffee we had in Berlin.

A little history of coffee in Berlin

No café tour of Berlin would be complete without paying homage to the famous Cafe Kranzler. The original cafe opened in 1834 on the beautiful boulevard, Unter den Linden in Mitte. Another followed on Kurfurstendamm in Charlottenburg.

Café Kranzler was the work of Johann Kranzler who created a space for fashionable Berliners to be after WW I. It was known for its extravagant New Years Eve parties. Sadly the original Mitte cafe was destroyed during WW II. The Charlottenburg location was severely damaged and redevelopment in the 1990’s took what was left. Today Café Kranzler has been located in the rotunda on the second floor of a fashion store at Kurfurstendamm Str.18, 10719.

Since we were there, it’s been leased to the well-known coffee folk who own The Barn Coffee Roastery, so you can expect good coffee. With a commanding view over Kurfurstendamm, the busiest boulevard in Berlin, Café Kranzler has been brought back to its former glory. It’s now a modern space to meet, work, read and drink excellent coffee. As well as inside, there’s a wide sunny balcony around the perimeter with 360 degree views of Berlin. And for a bit of trivia, at the back of the building, you’ll find two pyramid-shaped aviaries filled with exotic birds such as parrots and cockatoos, many of which are from Australia.

UPDATE on the best cafes in Berlin

This story was written following our visit to Berlin in 2011. A lot has happened since then regarding where to find good cafes in Berlin. While all of the cafes above are still operating as far as we know, we’d now like to list the following recommendations as well …

19 Grams (Chausseestrasse 36, 10115)

Annelies (Gorlitzer Strasse 68, 10997)

Aunt Benny (Oderstrasse 7, 10247)

Ben Rahim (Sophienstrasse 7, 10178)

Café Anna Blume (Kollwitzstrasse 83, 10435)

Café bRICK (Lenaustrasse 1, 12047)

Café Kraft (Schivelheiner Strasse 23, 10439)

Camon (Sonnenallee 27, 12047)

Channel Coffee Brewers (Berliner Strasse 23, 10439)

Chapter One Coffee (Mittenwalder Strasse 30, 10961)

Commonground (Rosenthaler Strasse 1, 10119)

Companion Coffee (Oranienstrasse 24, 10997)

Concierge Coffee (Paul-Lincke-Ufer 39-40, 10999)

F5coffee (Falckensteinstrasse 80, 13189)

Father Carpenter (Munzstrasser 21, 10178)

Fine Bagels (Warschauer Strasse 74, 10243)

Five Elephant Coffee (Reichenberger Strasse 101, 10999)

Garcia Kaffeebar (Waldstrasse 59, 10551)

Gordon Café (Allerstrasse 11. 12049)

Happy Baristas (Neue Bahnhofstrasse 32, 10245)

Home Café (Jonasstrasse 23, 12053)

Isla Coffee (Hermannstrasse 37, 12049)

Kaffee 9 (Eisenbahnstrasse 42/43, 10997)

Kaffeekirsche (Bockhstrasse 30, 10967)

Kaffenauten (Schutzenstrasse 4, 12165)

Lehmbrucks (Fehlerstrasse 1, 12161)

Nano Kaffee (Dresdener Strasse 14, 10999)

No Fire No Glory (Rykestrasser 45, 10405)

Nothaft Seidel Café (Schonhauser Allee 43A, 10435)

Nunzio (Muthesiusstrasse 1, 12163)

OAK Café (Weichelstrasse 66, 12043)

Oslo Kaffeebar (Eichendorffstrasse 13, 10115)

Panoramapunkt (Potsdamer Platz 1, 10785)

Populus Coffee (Maybachufer 20, 12045)

R/D (Chausseestrasse 19, 10115)

Refinery High End Coffee (Albrechtstrasse 11B, 10117)

Refugio (Lenaustrasse 4, 12047)

Silo Coffee (Gabriel-Max-Strasse 4, 10245)

Spontan (Gotzhowskystrasse 29, 10555)

The Visit Coffee Roastery (Adalbertstrasse 9, 10999)

Two Planets (Hermannstrasse 230, 12053)

West Berlin Bar and Shop (Friedrichstrasse 215, 10969)

White Crow (Bouchestrasse 15, 12435)

Wim Kaffee (Rhinower Strasse 1, 10119)

Zweitausend (Lobeckstrasse 30-35, 10969)